MOROCCO
In Moroccan homes, businesses, shops, and restaurants, visitors are served mint tea in straight-sided, clear or jewel-colored glasses (called keesan) often decorated with gold. The special brew is prepared by simmering gunpowder green tea in water with a generous handful of fresh spearmint (called na’na in Moroccan Arabic) and white sugar. The tradition of using China gunpowder green tea dates back to the middle of the 19th century, when the normal trading routes of a British tea merchant into the Baltic states were disrupted by the Crimean War, and so, instead, he started selling his tea in countries around the Mediterranean and estalished a successful business relationship with Morocco. The people of the region have been drinking gunpowder green tea ever since.
To prepare this refreshing and energizing tea, the required amount of tea leaves is measured into a bred, a round-bellied metal teapot with a conical pointed lid and a swan’s neck spout. The tea is first covered with a cupful of boiling water just to rinse the leaves, and the water is poured off after allowing it to stand for a minute. Next, the pot is filled two-thirds full with boiling water and is then placed on a low or medium heat (traditionally over glowing charcoal, but otherwise on an electric or gas burner) to bring the tea to a gently bubbling simmer. Next, the fresh mint and the equivalent of approximately 3 or 4 tablespoons of white sugar (traditionally in the form of chunks broken from a solid cone) are added. The pot must not be too full, for if it is, the bubbling water will overflow. Meanwhile, the beautiful glasses are prepared on a round silver or metal tray, and a sprig or two of fresh mint is added to each. Once the tea is ready, the syrupy amber liquor is poured from a height of approximately 2 feet (60 centimeters) into the glasses to aerate the liquor and create a layer of sticky bubbles on top of the tea. The brew is strong and sweet, and each person is expected to drink three glasses. Since the tea and mint go on steeping in the pot while people start to drink, the local proverb says, “The first glass is as gentle as life; the second is as strong as love; the third is as bitter as death.”
To accompany the tea, dried fruits (dates, apricots, and figs, among others) and nuts are offered, or a selection of Moroccan sweetmeats are served. These include a variety of sticky pastries filled with almonds, pistachios, and honey; dates stuffed with almond paste; chewy Moroccan macaroons; and Kaab el Ghazal (gazelle ankles or horns), small crescent-shaped pastries filled with almond paste, orange flower water, and cinnamon.
- 1½ to 2 tablespoons loose Chinese gunpowder green tea, or to taste
- 5 cups boiling water
- 3 to 4 tablespoons white sugar, or to taste
- 1 large bunch fresh mint
- Garnish: additional mint sprigs
- Measure the tea into the pot and add 1 cup boiling water. Leave to stand for 1 minute and then pour off and discard the water. (The tea leaves stay in the pot.)
- Add the remaining 4 cups boiling water and place the pot on the stove.
- When the water is just beginning to gently bubble, add the mint and the sugar and make sure they are fully submerged. Bring back to a simmer and then remove from the stove.
- Place one or two sprigs of mint in each glass for garnish, if desired, and pour the tea into the glasses from a height. Refill the glasses when required.
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