The Rose Hotel
Dan Spring Road, Tralee
therosehotel.com • +353-66-719-9100
Tralee (Trá Lí in Irish) is the capital of County Kerry, although it’s probably best known for hosting the Rose of Tralee Festival, an international event celebrated among Irish communities all over the world. The festival, dating to 1959, is one of the most famous in Ireland. It takes its inspiration from a 19th-century ballad of the same name that honors a woman called Mary, so beautiful she was dubbed “The Rose of Tralee.” The festival celebrates Irish women around the world, not just during the five-day event, but yearround in more than 60 Rose Centers in places as a far afield as Boston and Birmingham to San Francisco and Sydney. The woman crowned as the “Rose” is selected from 32 finalists because she is “lovely and fair,” as suggested in the lyrics of the song, and judged to be a great ambassador for Ireland during her yearlong tenure.
The Rose Hotel also has a special association with the song and the festival. Its owners, Eibhlín and Dick Henggeler, have always had a family connection with Ireland (Eibhlín was born in Killarney, the couple was married there, and they spent many summers in the area). The relationship intensified further after their daughter Dorothy (Dott) was named the Washington DC “Rose” in 2011. Tragically, Dott passed away from a brain tumor in 2014. A year later, the family bought the Fels Point Hotel, renamed it The Rose in her honor,and transformed it into a place of warmth and charm— a special place for its guests to have wonderful experiences, not the least of which is afternoon tea.
Stylishly designed and beautifully appointed, the Rose Room is a place filled with old-school glamour and charm, including white linen tableware, hand-painted wallpaper, and the perfect ambiance in which to enjoy an Irish tea experience (€29). It’s safe to assume that part of the experience will include smoked salmon in the sandwich course and that the salmon will be sourced from a local smokehouse or producer. At The Rose, you’ll find Paudie Spillane’s smoked salmon (from Fossa, an area outside of Killarney) served with red onion and horseradish on brown bread. Also included is baked ham with Coolea (Gouda-style cheese from County Cork) and tomato relish on white bread, along with the quintessential egg mayonnaise with watercress and chive on white bread. Plain and fruit scones are accompanied by clotted cream, lemon curd, and raspberry jam.
The pastry chef changes the sweets course frequently, possibly offering miniature strawberry panna cotta, a deliciously light coffee and chocolate opera cake, créme brûlée with fresh raspberries, and for a French touch, vanilla macarons with pencil-thin caramel drizzle. Add a glass of bubbly for €9. As is the case in most Irish hotels, a less formal tea experience is generally available. The Rose Hotel is no exception, offering tea and scones all day in Dott’s Bar or in the lobby.
The Rose Hotel serves formal afternoon tea by reservation daily from 2:00 until 4:00 p.m. in the Rose Room.
Margaret Johnson is the author of 13 cookbooks, including Teatime in Ireland and Tea & Crumpets. She lives in New York. Visit irishcook.com to learn more about her.
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