Park Hotel Kenmare
Shelbourne Street, Kenmare
parkkenmare.com • +353-64-664-1200
“Perfecting the art of afternoon tea since opening its doors 125 years ago” is the motto the stately Park Hotel uses to describe the teatime experience here, and with good reason—it is quite perfect! The chateau-style hotel is located at the “top of the town” in Kenmare, one of Ireland’s 27 “Heritage Towns,” so named because of their roots in Celtic, Viking, or Norman history, or because the town exhibits a combination of unique architectural style and a special feeling for the past. Kenmare’s Celtic name, Neiden, translates to “little nest,” appropriate for its position nestled between two of the region’s popular touring trails—the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara.
The hotel is one of Ireland’s most luxurious properties, sitting amid well-tended gardens, terraced lawns, lush roses, swaying palm trees, and stunning views over the Kenmare Estuary to the Caha Mountain Range. Proprietors Francis and John Brennan, legendary in the Irish hospitality industry, are caretakers of the Park’s elegant style in both the public and private rooms, all decorated with antique furnishings and objects d’art. Complementing the classic style are thoroughly modern dining venues, including a Champagne bar offering bubbles from some of the world’s most prestigious Champagne houses, a lively cocktail bar, a stunning-but-not-stuffy restaurant, and The Terrace, where afternoon tea is served (in warm weather, guests can also enjoy tea, drinks, and meals on the outdoor terrace).
A thoroughly modern touch, and one of the most unique aspects of the tea experience (€65), are the exquisite handmade “tea trees” designed by the father-son team of Joop and Adrian Duyn, acclaimed Kenmare-based woodworkers specializing in antique restoration and contemporary design. The four “branches” of the wood, brass, and marble tree act as serving platforms for the tea courses that would traditionally be offered from a tiered stand. Two servers attend to each table—one for presenting the sandwiches, scones, and pastries, and one for handling the tea selection, pouring, and refilling. Organic loose-leaf teas include unusual varieties like White Tea Chai (a blend of the White Peony variety with spices like cardamom, star anise, citrus peel, and cloves) and Jasmine Silver Bud Yin Hao (Pouchong tea scented with fresh jasmine flowers).
For the sandwich course, Goatsbridge smoked trout (from Thomastown, County Kilkenny) is a delicious alternative to smoked salmon. Served on brown bread with red onion chutney, it joins ham on multi-seed loaf with apple chutney, egg and chive mayonnaise on white bread, and roast chicken on rye bread. Rum cannelé (the famous Bordeaux confection with the crunchy exterior and custardy middle), lemon and strawberry chiboust (another nod to a traditional French pastry), hazelnut praline choux bun, glazed chocolate mousse, macaron, and red velvet cake take pride of place on two of the top branches. The Park’s legendary plain and raisin scones come with Glenilen clotted cream and homemade raspberry jam, and just when you think you couldn’t possibly enjoy another morsel, homemade shortbread biscuits appear for a final temptation. Complement the tea experience with a glass of Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne (€24), Taittinger Rosé (€31), or Prosecco Valdobbiadene (€17).
The Park serves afternoon tea on Saturday and Sunday at 1:30 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.; reservations required.
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